DaddyRay's
Frequently Asked Questions About Blades and Blade Care
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To see our selection of NEW BLADES Click Here
Below is a list of frequently asked questions about BLADES AND BLADE CARE that I have compiled over the years. Click on the question you would like the answer to. If you read carefully you may recognize a question you sent to me some time back. If you don't see the question you would like the answer to, just email your question to:daddyrays.net
This information was last updated 04/16/2008
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Some times, when I am clipping, my blade will cut for three or four inches, then bog down. The blade was recently sharpened. What can cause this?
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What is the best cleaning and lubrication solution to use for blade cleaning and lubrication
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I am confused about hollow ground blades. I understand that blades for dogs are hollow ground but is this true for horse, human and sheep blades? Can you use the same sharpening machine for dog blades on sheep, horse and barber blades? Thanks for you a
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Is hollow grinding uncommon for average blade sharpening services...is this what we should be looking for in a blade service?
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What do you mean mean by the term "factory specs" for hollow grinding?
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Are the barber and beautician clipper blades the same as animal clipper blades?
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What causes my blade to pop off my clipper when I try to use it in heavy hair?
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Why are the blades of the 60s and 70s better than the crappola being sold today?
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What is the difference between a skip tooth blade and a regular tooth blade?
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I'm from the groomers list. all of the newer Andis 10's and 15's I have really don't clip nicely at all.....I've talked to Andis and sent the blades to them for resharpening, they just don't seem to work well very long and then when I get them sharpened they cut but not as good as my old blades. I don't know whether to keep trying out different sharpeners or to just buy some new 10's and 15's. I like the old Andis blades that I've had for years but I'm not sure whether or not I'll get duds again when I order new ones. Christmas is coming and I'm trying to avoid a problem. (nothing worse than being busy and having equipment problems!) What blades do you recommend?
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I Live in a high humidity climate. What can I do to help prevent my blades from rusting. And how do I tell if my blades are rusty or stained.
Some times, when I am clipping, my blade will cut for three or four inches, then bog down. The blade was recently sharpened. What can cause this?
Even perfectly sharp blades can refuse to cut!!!....This can be caused by three things. Improper adjustment of the blade-set, blade spring tension or dirty blades.
Let's discuss dirty blades...........To do this, let's take a blade set apart. Look at the under side of both blades. The big blade (hereafter referred to as the comb) and the small blade (hereafter referred to as the cutter) have raised portions at the teeth and heel of both blades. The raised portions are where both blades come into contact with one another when the set is reassembled. The raised portions are actually bearings and like the bearings in your automobile, they must stay clean and lubricated.
Now let's get back to the "bogging down" after cutting a few inches. Rust is the number one culprit, and can happen in just a few hours. The cause can be due to cutting wet hair. The only cure for this is prevention. If the blades are rusty, they must be re-sharpened to remove the rust. If you cut wet hair, rust can be prevented by cleaning and lubricating during and after each grooming.
Oily residue and varnish can cause sharp blades to not cut. The oily residue comes from grooming an unwashed dog. The natural oils in the dogs coat can collect on the blades. It will build up on the bearings and cause the blades to separate ever so slightly. Then the small hair clippings will get between the blades. The heat from the blades will build up to turn this mess into varnish. It will continue to build up enough to prevent the blades from cutting. The solution to this is to clean the blades several times or as much as needed when grooming.
It is important enough to repeat this admonishment. If these small hairs and body oil remain there, they will eventually melt and turn to a kind of varnish, which will slow down the blade action. A build up of this varnish will separate the blades and more hair will become trapped, causing perfectly sharp blades to not cut and just "munch up" and "bog down". I think you know what I am inadequately trying to describe when a blade just stops cutting and hangs up in the hair.
Washing the blades while grooming is very important to the maintenance of your blades, and will keep your blades cool and speed up the grooming process....... Don't forget to put one (1) small drop of oil on both bearings (raised portion between blades) of the blades at the end of the day. You do this by pushing the small blade nearly half way to the side and oiling then doing the same to the other side.
Spring Tension.........The blade springs are necessary to keep the proper tension of the two blades between one another in order to slice even the smallest hair. Spring tension is set at the factory on new blades. The proper tension on the spring is set on blades that have never been sharpened. As the blades get sharpened over a period of time the spring tension becomes less and less due to the metal being ground away during the process of sharpening. At some time after several sharpenings, the spring tension will become so weak that hair will get between the blades and not be cut. This will cause the blades to "bog down".
Setting the spring tension is very precise and can't be done by just anyone. The spring has two legs that have to be set just alike. Then you need to know how much to set them. There is no tool on the market for doing this exacting job. After several years, I invented a tool for setting the spring tension. It is the only one that I know of, so don't ask to borrow it!! :)
Adjusting the blades......I have a complete section on blade adjustment in question # 3.
This is a very good question and the answer is yes, if the blade is made for the Andis AG, it will work on the Oster A5, Wahl and Laube. Most all professional blades are interchangeable. They will state on the package or in the catalog that they are "A-5" or "Snap On" type blades.
Here is what you have to be VERY careful of: If the blade-set is adjusted to work well on the Andis, the blade-set may not work well on another clipper without adjusting it to fit properly on another clipper.
This happens so many times, and the blame usually falls on the clipper, when the problem really is due to improper adjustment of the blades.
You should have on hand enough blade-sets to use individually on both clippers. You should mark the blades you are using on the Andis with one color of toenail polish and the blade you are using on the Oster with another color. Adjust the blades to fit and work well with each clipper, then don't miss-match them.
If you will turn the blade-set over you will see little "ears" on the socket. The socket is attached to the comb part of the blade-set by the two screws that go through the comb. The comb should never move when the clipper is turned on. If the little "ears are fitted properly, the comb will not "wiggle" or move from side to side. If the comb moves, even slightly, it will chatter, leave rows, pull hair, and bog down. The "ears" should fit snuggly over the hinge assembly on the Laube and the (A5) and (AG) clippers.
The hinge assembly part will differ slightly between companies. This difference will result in the blade-set not fitting well. Because of this, some groomers swear that one brand of clipper is superior to another, when the problem is actually the blade adjustment. This is why the blade-set should be adjusted to fit each clipper.
To adjust the blade; turn the clipper on (always do this first!!), mount the blade and observe if the comb part has ANY movement. even EVER SO SLIGHT. It should be ABSOLUTELY still. If there is movement, remove the blade and turn it over. Use VERY GOOD pliers and gently squeeze the "ears" together. Repeat until all movement is gone. If you have closed the ears too much, they won’t mount. This can be remedied by forcing the ears over the hinge. While the clipper is running, place the back of the comb to the heel of your left hand and using your right hand, press hard enough with the clippers to force the blade into it's proper place.
WARNING!!! The ears are breakable. Too much squeezing will cause an ear to fall off. That is why I said use a VERY GOOD pair of pliers.
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When you don't have time for proper oiling, and a fast lube and cooling
is needed, a very good product that most of my clients use during the busy day
of grooming is Laube Lube-n-Cool. It
Disinfects, Cools, Lubricates, and Cleans.
To order this product, go to
For proper cleaning, in my shop, we use Stoddard Solvent, to clean and lubricate the blades before returning them to you. Stoddard Solvent is a petroleum product that has many names that it is marketed by, such as: Naptha, Varsol, Charcoal Lighter Fluid and other commercial solvents. It's chief use is a cleaning solution. It is sold commercially for this purpose in 55 gallon drums to nearly every industry and manufacturing plant that uses machinery. It is also the principal cleaning solution used by dry cleaners. And it is available to you as groomers at your local grocery store sold under the pseudonym of "Charcoal Lighter" fluid.
Unlike gasoline, diesel, or kerosene, which vaporizes instantly at room temperature. Charcoal lighter has a very high flash point and will not vaporize at room temperature, which makes it safe to use around electrical motors. Meaning, that a spark will not set it off and cause a flash fire. An open flame must first be held against the fluid for a length of time in order for it to reach it's boiling temperature and vaporize, then burn. It is the gaseous vapors that burn. The fact that Stoddard solvent must reach such a high temperature before it vaporizes is what makes it safe to sell in grocery stores as charcoal lighter.
Because of the volume we use, we buy it by the 5 gallon can, which is considerably cheaper than buying brand name clipper blade cleaners. The charcoal lighter will clean the blades as they run in the liquid and because it is a petroleum product, it will leave enough light oil on the blades to lubricate them. We just pour some into a coffee can, dip the running clippers into the can for a few seconds, wipe them off and they are clean and lubricated. We use compressed air to blow the excess lighter fluid off the clippers. You might experiment with one of your blow dryers.
At the end of the day, you should run the blades in SOME TYPE of cleaning solution, then remove the blades from the clipper and slide the small blade to one side, put one SMALL drop of household oil on both contact surfaces of the large blade (the parts where the two blades touch), then slide the small blade the other direction and put one SMALL drop of oil on the contact surfaces of the other side of the large blade. Wipe down and store on any absorbent material to collect any excess oil. If you have problems with oil getting onto your animals coat, then you are using too much lubricant. It takes only a VERY small drop of oil to lubricate this tiny area. But, it IS NECESSARY. NEVER run your blades dry.
Oil is necessary for the prevention of rust and friction. Lubrication is necessary to prevent heat buildup because of the friction that blades create from rapidly moving back and forth. You would not run your auto without oil. Without lubrication, the blades will get so hot they will actually burn the animal.
What is the best cleaning and lubrication solution to use for blade cleaning and lubrication
This is a question of personal preference. So I will answer what MY PERSONAL PREFERENCE is and the reason for this preference.
In our shop, we test all blades before shipping them back to the groomers. We dip our blades while they are running into a coffee can that contains Stoddard solvent (charcoal lighter fluid) long enough to clean them. You can actually hear the clipper motor speed up when the blades become clean and lubricated. We then blow them off with compressed air, and wipe them down before testing.
The reason we use charcoal lighter fluid is because it is not as flammable as kerosene or WD-40. We have a lot of sparks flying in the shop and don't want an accidental flame up. Also, the charcoal lighter fluid is not as harsh as kerosene on the hands, and it will clean the blade-set, leave a film of oil on the blades and is cheaper than blade wash or WD-40.
Clean lubricated blades will ALWAYS run COOLER than dirty blades.
For those of you who are afraid to dip the blades while running, it is ok to do this as long as you don't dip past the vents on the side of the (Oster) clipper motor. In fact it is important that you dip while the blades are running in order for the back and forth motion of the blades to wash and clean out the very small hairs that may become trapped between the teeth of the top and bottom blades.
We then put a very small drop of household oil on each side of the comb by pushing the cutter from one side to the other then pushing the cutter to the other side and put a very small drop of oil on this side.
After oiling we wrap the blade in a paper towel and ship to you.
My friend in a small town has to have her blades sharpened every month. My blades do not have to be sharpened near as often. Why is this?
How often blades need sharpening depends on several things. I will discuss the harder steel first. Without plugging any certain manufacturer, harder steel does make a difference. The softer steel will dull faster than the harder. However the harder steel will break easier if dropped. Enough said about steel.
With the blades being near equal, the next factor to consider will be bathing the dogs. Do you bathe the dogs BEFORE or AFTER clipping. Dirty hair will dull blades, including shears, faster than clean hair.
The next thing to consider is your clientele. Are your clients mostly small house dogs, or large outside breeds. Are they heavy coated? If so, they may be wallowing in sand or dust dirtying their coats.
A case in point. I have a veterinarian client who has a practice in a small East Texas town just 20 miles from my city. Many of the people who work in my city have moved and commute to this town for the joys and peace of country living. They own large country lots or small farms. As a consequence the majority of these people have large outside dogs. This veterinarian mails me 18 to 24 blades per month to sharpen.
I have other groomers who's clients mostly have inside dogs. They only have to have their blades sharpened every 2 to 3 months.
My son is a barber. He only has to have his blades sharpened once a year. Clean hair does make a difference.
I am confused about hollow ground blades. I understand that blades for dogs are hollow ground but is this true for horse, human and sheep blades? Can you use the same sharpening machine for dog blades on sheep, horse and barber blades?Thanks for you answer as I have always wondered which blades were not hollow ground.
Sheep shears are flat ground, not hollow ground. Human blades are the same as dog blades with the exception of a few different sizes and are numbered differently. They should be hollow ground.
Horse blades: The snap-on blades blades used on horses that fit on Laube, Oster, Andis and Wahl clippers are the same as dog blades. The horse blades that fit on the big Stewart/Oster/Sunbeam clippers are flat ground.
I have turntables on my machines for both flat grinding and hollow grinding.
Is hollow grinding uncommon for average blade sharpening services...is this
what we should be looking for in a blade service?
"Hollow Grinding" is a term used in the cutting instruments
manufacturing industry. Hollow grinding is a method if achieving a very
narrow, thin edge on a cutting blade, and still reserve the strength of a
thick blade. After the initial grinding at the
manufacturing stage, it is important that subsequent sharpenings do not grind
off this hollow ground edge. Yes, I use an automatic hollow grinding
machine, that holds both the comb and cutter on the turntable at the same
time, which matches them together. The two arms use magnets to hold the comb
and cutter, and the two arms are adjusted to allow the blades to come in
contact with the turntable very lightly and at the proper angle to achieve the
hollow ground cutting surface on the blades. To achieve the hollow ground
cutting surface, the arms have to be adjusted for each size of blades, 40s,
30s, 10s, 7s, etc. Before the process of honing starts, the turntable is
sprinkled with a very fine honing compound that delicately polishes the
cutting surfaces of the blades by removing less than .0015" of steel from
the blade. I have a picture
of a machine like the ones I use in my shop. You can see the two arms using
magnets that hold the cutter and comb, on the turntable. The advantage to
this, is that I don’t have to attempt to hold either of these pieces on this
fast moving (400 rpm) table with just my fingers, which is required on the
flat grinding tables.
On the flat tables, Instead of magnets, the blade is held on the turntable with the grinder's hand and fingers. This same method is used on all sizes of blades. Finger pressure is needed to hold the blade on the fast moving table. If the grinder should place too much pressure on just one corner of the comb or cutter, then the blades will start wearing in that direction, just like an out of line tire on your car. Also, the cutter and comb have to be ground separately and hope they mate after the grinding. Also they use a very coarse grinding powder that rapidly cuts metal from the blades, reducing the life of the blade.
For other sharpening services, I cannot answer for them, but you can ask if they use the automatic machines that grind both the cutter and comb together. If the answer is yes, then I would think if the sharpening service invested that much money in a "single use machine" (a machine that has only one use, sharpening blades), then in all probability the machine will hollow grind your blades. Also, if the grinder comes to your shop, you can take a look at his equipment and watch him sharpen some of your blades. If he is using a flat grinding machine, he will be holding the blades on the turntable with his fingers.
Flat tables are "multiple use" machines and are used in machine shops for flat grinding any type of material that may require a flat surface.
Whereas a clipper blade machine is used for only one purpose. To hollow grind clipper blades. Many shops are not willing to invest in a machine that will do only one job. Also, you can buy three flat grinders for the price of one clipper blade machine.
A blade guy that uses the proper hollow grinding machine will save you a lot of dollars. My shop has found that just by removing .0015" of metal will sharpen most blades if they haven’t been scored by a grain of sand or something like that. By removing only .0015" of metal with each sharpening, you extend the life of your blades and get many more sharpenings before you have to discard them. The result is you don’t have to buy new blades so often. So, I would think this is what you should look for in a blade service.
What do you mean by the term "factory specs" for hollow grinding?
We have charts and gauges to adjust our machines to the correct sharpening angle for every different blade size. This angle is the angle at which the blade makes contact with the polishing wheel and is specified by the factory for each size blade. We set these angles with steel blocks that are supplied with the machine by the manufacturer. In other words, we have a steel block of the correct thickness for each blade size. We set the machine up for all the size number 1A blades with a steel block number 093. This sets the arms that hold the blade on the polishing wheel at the correct angle for the blade. Then the machine automatically sharpens the blade with a hollow ground edge. This procedure is followed for every size blade that you send for sharpening.
This machine is a single purpose machine and this purpose is sharpening clipper blades only. It is a little more elaborate, but in the long run, you can get many more sharpenings from a blade set.
I hope this answers your question.
Sooooo-- All blades that fit the big Sunbeam clippers, whether for sheep, cow or horse are flat ground. Horse blades I use on my Andis clipper are hollow ground like the dog blades. Please let me know if this is correct.
No matter what the animal is that is being sheared/clipped, all UNIVERSAL snap-on blades used on the Laube/Andis/Oster/Wahl PROFESSIONAL groomer's clippers are hollow ground. The blades are numbered for the length of hair that is being left on the animal after it has been clipped. So, a number 10 blade, no matter if it is an Oster, Andis, Laube or Wahl blade will fit on any PROFESSIONAL clipper and will leave hair 1/16" long after it is clipped. It matters not what type animal is being clipped/sheared. The numbers range from a number "3" that leaves a 1/2" cut to a number "50" that is used by veterinarians to shave the skin and leaves 1/150" cut. So a "dog" blade can clip a cat, horse, rabbit, pig, sheep or bull. The "guards/combs" that are put on the blades will add to the length of cut.
I hope this clears up any confusion you may have regarding the blades and whether they should be hollow ground or not.
Are the barber and beautician clipper blades the same as animal clipper blades?
Yes, most definitely! Laube labels their blades for both Groomers and Barber. Oster and Andis (I'm not sure about Wahl) have two types of distributorships. One distributorship for barber and beauty blades, clippers and accessories and one for animal blades, clippers and accessories. The only difference is the numbers on the blades. This is to allow them to have distributors in the same area, but not in competition with one another. In my town there is a barber and beauty supply company and a farm supply company. Both sell Oster and Andis blades and equipment. Where the barber blade numbers go from size 00000 to 14, animal groomer blades go from size 50 to size 3 1/2. This might sound confusing, but a barber can't buy a size 2 from a farm supply store, but he could buy a size 5, which is the animal blade equivalent to a barber's size 2. Both will leave the hair 1/4" long after being cut, both are snap-on blades and will fit the Oster, Andis or Wahl professional clippers. Also both blades are of the same exact quality.
What causes my blade to pop off my clipper when I try to use it in heavy hair?
Most probably it is the latch. The latch, which is the black piece of the hinge assembly, is the piece that holds the blade in position after the hinge is closed.
On Laube and Oster, before removing a blade, you must first depress the hinge assembly, which is located under the blade. If a blades is snapped open without depressing the hinge, the hook that grabs the blade will break off the latch. If this happens on all your blades, then go to my parts department and order a new one. If it is happening only on one blade, then replace the socket, then go to my parts department and order a new socket.
On an Andis, check the hinge assembly for movement by pressing on the top and bottom with your fingers. If there is any movement at all, replace the entire assembly. Be sure to not lose the tiny spring under the hinge assembly. This is very important in holding a blade in position.
When the fellow who sharpens my blades does my 40's, I am not pleased. They come back very sharp across the top edge of them, I've cut my finger with them. From the factory they work just fine for carefully scooping out matted pads, but after sharpening they nick the skin. I don't like that at all. They are not old blades, this even happens on the first sharpening. Why is this and what can I do.
Not knowing what type of machine your "blade guy" is using it is hard to make an accurate determination. The problem can be caused by 2 or 3 different things. The first thing that comes to mind; (you said: "this even happens on the first sharpening."), most likely is the blade set is not properly re-assembled. The cutter is either too close, or extended beyond the leading edge of the comb. This will cause the back and forth motion of the cutter to cut the skin.
But, you also said ("They come back very sharp across the top edge of them, I've cut my finger with them"); If the blades are worn, then this will happen, even using the correct sharpening equipment. The "blade guy" should tell you when the blades are worn out.
The third thing could be: (You said "They are not old blades, this even happens on the first sharpening"......"I've cut my finger with them". Your blade guy may not be using the proper equipment. Some grinders are still using the old flat tables that requires them to hold the blade on the circular table by hand while it is turning. If he puts too much pressure (some pressure is required to hold the blade on the table) on the leading edge of the blade, then this edge will grind down to a sharp edge, which will cut your finger. This type of sharpening table is a multiple use flat grinding table used by machine shops to grind many different things. Very coarse grinding powder is used and cuts down the blades very quickly.
The type machine that I use is a single purpose machine and that purpose is only for sharpening clipper blades. It costs three times as much as the multipurpose flat grinding machines, but we use a very fine polishing powder that polishes, rather than grinds the blades, thus you will be able to get 17 - 20 sharpenings from a single blade set. My machine automatically sets the blades to the correct angle and "hollow-grinds" the blades to factory specifications. We do not take off more that .0015" of metal in our sharpenings. Most times it is less that that.
Why are the blades of the 60s and 70s better than the crappola being sold today?
The metal the blades are cast from is a mixture of iron and carbon, usually containing between 0.2 and 1.5 percent carbon, often with other constituents such as manganese, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, copper, tungsten, cobalt, or silicon, depending on the desired alloy properties.
The more carbon, the harder the steel. The harder the steel, the less sharpening the blades need, but the more brittle the teeth will be when dropped.
I would assume that blade manufacturers have opted for a metal that falls somewhere in the middle for their blades. It's my guess that they opted for a softer steel that would not break when dropped, or lose a tooth in a dirty (sandy) coat, yet be hard enough to stand the use of constant cutting. However, they dull quicker than blades made from the hardest steel. The Cryotech blades are very hard and will stay sharp longer, but, they are also very brittle. If I were going to invest in them, I would shampoo the dog BEFORE grooming, as sand in the coat could damage the blade.
How fast is your turn-around? I would like to send my blades to you, but I can't afford to take a week off until they are returned to me.
You don't need to wait until you take a week or so off to send your blades, clippers or shears to me. I have a very fast turn-around. In most cases, I can get your blades back into the US Mail the next business day after they are received. I use US Priority Mail, which will get to you within 2-3 days depending what type of post office serves your address. Major post offices can receive Priority Mail in 2 days. As my address is delivered to each morning before 10:30 AM, I can get your order into my system, completed and then deliver it to the post office before 5:30 PM the next day.
Most of my customers send their blades in two shipments. They
first, send half their blades, then when the first half is returned, they send
the other half.
I have several old blades that I don't know if they can be used or sharpened. What can I do with them?
Don't worry about wondering if a blade is worth sharpening or not, as I do not charge for blades that cannot be sharpened. If a blade is not sharpenable, I will return the blades to you and then you can discard it. After all, you may be able to salvage the spring and socket. So, as long as the old blades do not have any broken teeth, send them all!
What is the difference between a skip tooth blade and a regular tooth blade?
The skip tooth blade has every other tooth shortened, and is generally used before bathing and
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the finish cut. When purchasing blades the letter "F" denotes the blade has a "finish cut" or has all long teeth. The blade without a letter "F" is generally a "skip tooth". Blades with the same number, like the "4" and "4F" at left, leave the hair the same length after cutting. The blades that are normally in this category are: 7 & 7F, 5 & 5F, 4 & 4F
What do you think about ceramic blades
Please bear in mind, I am a SHARPENER not a GROOMER. My experience with the ceramic blade is completely different than yours.
- Ceramic blades are brittle. In my shop, we work with an anti-fatigue mat under our work bench. Besides being nice to our feet, they are a soft place to land in case a clipper blade or shear is dropped.
- If correctly lubricated, ceramic blades should run cooler as ceramics will not conduct heat as well as metal. However, this is just my thoughts, because in our shop we will not be running them long enough to get hot.
- Ceramic blades, when sent in to us for sharpening: (a) very few have needed the ceramic cutter to be sharpened. (b) The metal comb is the first to get dull.
- The ceramic cutter itself is harder than
any normal sharpening/polishing grit. As diamonds are the hardest substance
known, the ceramic cutter itself MUST to be sharpened/polished using
instruments which contain diamond grit.
I'm from the groomers list. all of the newer Andis 10's and 15's I have really don't clip nicely at all.....I've talked to Andis and sent the blades to them for resharpening, they just don't seem to work well very long and then when I get them sharpened they cut but not as good as my old blades. I don't know whether to keep trying out different sharpeners or to just buy some new 10's and 15's. I like the old Andis blades that I've had for years but I'm not sure whether or not I'll get duds again when I order new ones. Christmas is coming and I'm trying to avoid a problem. (nothing worse than being busy and having equipment problems!) What blades do you recommend?
All blade manufacturers have very competitive blades. I don't think any one blade is superior to another for over all grooming. The mixture of iron and carbon that goes into the steel making process determines the hardness of the steel. The harder the steel the more brittle it becomes. The softer the steel the quicker it becomes dull.
There are so many things that will make a sharp blade not cut that it is difficult to answer in this email. However, your email was mostly describing recently acquired blades. If this is correct, you may have 10s and 15s that are not fully adjusted to fit your clippers. Do you observe any movement in the comb (large blade) when the clipper is turned on? If so, then the blade surely needs adjusting to fit your clipper. For more information you may want to read Question #3 at the top of this page.
I Live in a high humidity climate. What can I do to help prevent my blades from rusting. And how do I tell if my blades are rusty or stained.
To answer your question regarding the “rust” on the blades; in your environment, you will have to keep the blades away from oxygen and water, which together will create rust on metal. Here is what I would try; to store blades for more than 24 hours, I would place well oiled blades in a cabinet drawer or fishing tackle box, covered, top and bottom, wrapped in an absorbent cotton cloth like an old diaper. The oil will be absorbed into the diaper after several weeks and this will make it even more desirable to cover the blades with. The newer fishing tackle boxes are made to be water tight in case they should fall into the lake. This will help greatly in keeping the humidity away from the blades. You could even lay a diaper on the bottom of a tray in the tackle box, place the blades on the diaper liner, then place another diaper over the top of the blades. You may have to cut the diaper to fit, but it will be worth it in the long run. For the blades you use everyday, I would purchase (a) a Tupperware type bowl that is unbreakable with a lid that will not spill liquids, and (b) a quart can of charcoal lighter fluid. At the end of the day place these blades into the bowl and cover with the charcoal lighter fluid. This will prevent both water and oxygen from getting to the blades. You will have to wipe them before using, but they will be well oiled. The charcoal lighter fluid is nothing but Stoddard Solvent, which is a petroleum based product. Your husband or other male friends may know the product by the trade name Varsol. As a P.S. to this “advise” the charcoal lighter fluid is a great cooling and cleaning agent to dip your blades into while they are still running. Or, you could pour some into a spray bottle, to spray onto your blades when needed. The charcoal lighter fluid is much less expensive than commercial “Kool Lube”. I buy it by the drum for cleaning and lubing in my blade shop
It is normal for blades to get rusty looking stains on the blades. This is due to the composition of iron, carbon, magnesium, etc. in the make up of the material the blades are made of. A stain will not affect anything but the appearance of the blade. The sharpness and longevity of the blade will not be affected at all. The best way to determine if your blades are rusty or stained is to spray a little WD-40, or charcoal lighter fluid on the rusty spot, then rub it with a rag. If the rust comes off then it is rust. If it doesn’t come off, then it is a stain.
Your blades, however, were rusty. We used a wire brush to clean the rust off and oiled them well before sharpening. After sharpening, we oiled the blades again. I hope this helps.